Marrakech travel guide
Our first container from Morocco arrives in July. Here’s a look at the trip behind it.
We didn’t go to Marrakech to relax. We went to buy. It’s not glamorous. It’s a lot of walking. A lot of digging. A lot of “how much?” and “what’s your best price?” and “can you ship this?” But we’re grateful to do it and to bring a piece of it back with us.
We like learning about a place by buying from it…meeting vendors, talking with artisans, seeing what’s made and how. Sometimes it’s over mint tea, sometimes through Google Translate. For someone else, it might be food, or hiking, or music. Tour buses have their place. But when you can experience a place this way, it sticks.
STAY
We split the trip between two places:
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A riad in the medina, built around a tiled courtyard. Cool, quiet, traditional. If it’s your first time in Morocco, stay in a riad. It’s the clearest way to see the country’s architecture and hospitality. The medina is loud and chaotic, but a riad gives you a break.
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A modern apartment in Gueliz, where the pace is slower. The neighborhood has good restaurants, small shops, and a more local feel. We’d like to spend more time there on our next trip.
EAT & DRINK
We were in Marrakech during Ramadan. The days were slower, quieter. Shops opened late, some restaurants didn’t open at all until after sundown. During Ramadan, practicing Muslims fast from both food and water from sunrise to sunset. It felt like the whole culture participated, an entire city adjusting its rhythm. We talked a lot about the discipline involved. It was humbling to witness.
This trip, a few meals stood out:
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BlackChic– North African food served on a rooftop with great views and even better design. The space is layered with green zellige tile, African textiles, and a railing made from old Moroccan tent posts called Tuareg. We came for a quick dinner and accidentally ordered a pile of vegetable fries thinking we were getting something grilled. We didn’t complain, in fact we ate the whole thing. The space felt relaxed and sharp.
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Terrasses des Arts – This restaurant is tucked inside a museum, which made the whole experience feel a little quieter, a little more special. They brought out some snacks to start, which were unexpectedly amazing. We had the pastilla, a savory pie made with layers of flaky pastry, meat, and cinnamon-dusted almonds. It sounds strange, but it works. We ordered a feast, had plenty of leftovers, and then forgot the bag on the table. We talked about those leftovers for the rest of the trip.
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Baromètre – A surprise favorite. Felt like a speakeasy, tucked away, low-lit, almost theatrical. We weren’t expecting great cocktails, given that alcohol isn’t common in a Muslim country. But they weren’t just great for Morocco, they were great by any standard. Complex, beautiful, and carefully made. It felt like a show. We’ll leave it at that in case you go. Should you find yourself in Marrakech, we want you to have the same unexpected experience.
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Mama Afrika – We ended up here on a tip from our bartender at Baromètre and we loved it. They host a jam night on Mondays, which we didn’t catch but would go back for. It’s run by a husband and wife, and you feel their presence in everything. While we were there, he told us she came in years ago looking for a job. They didn’t know each other then. Now they’re married, running the place together. She smiled and said, “I wasn’t looking for anything, but I found everything.”
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Pentaque – This one nearly didn’t happen. Big metal doors, no sign. We were heading somewhere else that ended up closed. Doubled back and found one of our best meals of the trip. The design was a standout, one of the most inspiring spaces we saw. A sharp mix of primitive antiques and clean modern elements. The patio had oversized woven pendant lights, firepits, and blankets for when the temperature dropped. Every detail was right.
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NAME: Matt was walking to check out town, no plan, no destination…because that’s the best way to explore. He passed a butcher shop with a side tent packed with locals, smoke rising from a grill. No sign, no menu. He sat down, ordered a few kebabs (?? was that it) and it was his best meal of the trip. No frills, no Instagram. Just a good lunch in a place that wasn’t trying to impress anyone.
TO DO
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You’ll hear it a hundred times, but it’s true: walk the medina. Bargain. The goal isn’t to win or get the very best deal, it’s to engage. To experience a different way of life. And don’t worry about getting lost…you will. We stayed near Moulay al-Yazid Mosqueand used its minaret, the tall tower on a mosque, as our landmark. But in the maze of alleyways, every tower started to look the same. We were constantly spotting towers and asking, “Is that our mosque?” It became the running joke of the trip.
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Get a hammam. You’ll sweat, get scrubbed down, and rinsed off in a cloud of steam. It’s intense, but you walk out feeling reset. We went to Les Bains de Marrakech. It’s beautiful and well-run, but you’ll need to reserve in advance. Go later in the trip when your feet are wrecked and you need a reset.
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Souk El Khemis: If you want to get off the beaten path, head to Souk El Khemis. Located on the northeastern edge of the medina, this flea market is a mix of the unexpected: antique doors, vintage radios, rusted lanterns, and heaps of secondhand clothes. It's not curated. It's not polished. But if you're willing to dig, you might find something special.
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Spend time in the Old Medina, especially near the metalworkers. It’s not built for tourists, the best places often aren't. The air smells like smoke and hot metal. It's a glimpse into the everyday artistry that fuels the city. We were there during Ramadan, and around 5pm the market would shift. Vendors started laying out food for people to take home and break their fast-- big bowls of olives, rounds of bread, sardines frying right on the street. Sensory overload at its finest.
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We visited Valérie Barkowski’s shop, and it’s worth a stop. The space is painted entirely in mauve. Subtle, striking, and lets the products stand out. There were small pendant lights shaped like traditional Fez caps- a creative use of a classic motif. A creative, modern take on a classic symbol. As a shop owner, it’s always interesting to see how others approach curation and space and this one felt especially thoughtful.
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We loved Coucou Chamelle – This one took effort to get to. It came as a recommendation from our riad groundskeeper. Google Maps led us astray three times, and wandering the streets trying to find it was humbling. As travelers, we think we know how to do this but sometimes we don’t. We finally messaged the owner for directions. The exterior is unmarked and easy to miss. Inside, it’s an oasis. A beautiful mix of African artifacts, textiles, and sculpture. Every piece felt considered. He uses color beautifully, bold but balanced. The kind of shop where you want to take your time. Thoughtful curation and a passionate, knowledgeable owner made it one of our favorites of the trip.
